Welcome to Edellescipades.com come along as I recount the latest adventures on our most recent getaway. This trip report comes to you from the sunny riverbanks of Porto, Portugal. A Girl Her Hubs and A Suitcase commemorate this victory lap of our biannual sojourn. There was a strong likelihood this most celebrated event would not come to fruition-replaced with the potential horror of finally retiring the adored but tattered suitcase. Coming off the heels of a much-needed surgery, followed by several months of dutiful restorative recovery, a vacation was far from the grasp of reality.
But as the fog lifted and regeneration made way to resurrection I am thankful to say I am an improved, healthier and intensely more grateful version of myself. A soft launch effort to kickstart my comeback tour had to begin with a good old fashioned European spring fling. It turns out, returning to what you love that feeds the soul-is precisely what the doctor ordered. Fresh air, captivating views and serendipitous R&R with the Hubs in majestic Porto!
Why Porto-you say-I declare-why not! Back in 2014, we ventured to Portugal albeit a younger, spryer and simpler iteration of us. We hit Sintra, Lisbon, Coimbra and Fatima-it’s an entertaining read and a good reflection in the impact travel created in our lives. We learned along the way in trip planning not everything on the wish list will be achieved. The notion that “you can always come back” softens the blow of disappointment (even when the reality of this is sometimes impossible). With that in mind, we never gave up on Porto. When travel fever kicked in this year, with a favorable airfare, intrigue and unabated longing of the unknown-we simply went for it.
Day 1
An uneventful Tampa night flight carried us into the dark skies via Amsterdam to Portugal arriving in the late afternoon. We took a pleasant complimentary ride service arranged from Booking.com (for years of loyal patronage) to our outstanding residence for the next 8 days-Vitoria’s Terrace Apartments.
Vitoria’s is nestled on a cozy, quiet, serene lane. Original commanding cobalt blue doors shield the outside standing guard to the simple elegance that is preserved inside. Weary from over 24 hours of travel, Rita the owner greeted us with a friendly and inviting welcome. She sat us down in what was once the former horse stable, the glossy sheen bouncing off the butter-yellow colored ornate wall tile caught my eye-lingering just briefly in my delirious bemused state.
My mind conjured up an imaginary world where this ceramic treasure served as my kitchen backsplash. Flipping pancakes with that in my periphery would be all the motivation a gal could need. Mid flapjack toss in my tile fantasy-I was brought back to reality by Rita’s compelling story of triumph-sharing the roots of Vitoria’s and how it was brought to life. In 2020 her and her husband Rui-both Porto natives took a leap of faith and began renovating.
As we all remember the unknown that came along with this time period-the beginning of their dream was a bit stalled. However, after the pandemic ended Vitoria has been consistently fully booked and highly rated.
The pair live on the premises along with their 2 beautiful babies and playful German Shepards. The owner’s occupancy in the residence is expressed in the care, attention and love that is evident throughout the “home”. This is one of the key differences that makes this stay much different than any other.
As we ascended the 6 flights of steps gripping the swooping corkscrew curl of the polished wooden spiral staircase, suitcases in tow, incandescent sunlight spilled in from the glass ceiling oculus. We indulged this time around, falling in love with Vitoria’s offerings and splurged for the Penthouse.
The Staircase
Walking into the space, the striking postcard view of Porto and the alluring Douro River takes full presence and ownership of the room. Traditional Rabelo Boats dot the harbor below, swooping greedy seagulls patrol the clear skies, the discord of their mocking cries echoes monotonous warning calls. The layered Vila Nova De Gaia across the river displaying lit up winery names emblazed into a panoramic picturesque wonderland. The sprawling Dom Luis Bridge linking 2 worlds with one grand architectural structure.
The View
The appeal of Vitoria’s amongst many things is the combination of old and new. The walls have stories, and the bones of the building are from a world long gone; however, the charm of an ancient time endures. Inside clean, sleek modern amenities create an environment of comfort, warmth and once again-home. A kitchen of convenience has anything you would need. The spacious bedroom 1 of 2, contributed many nights of well rested sleep with luxurious linens, a sitting area to bask in the ample sun and gaze at the spellbinding view.
French doors open to a Romeo and Juliet balcony terracotta rooftops beneath sharing the open air with the restless birds. Vitoria’s not only was a place of lodging and rest but a curative respite for my mind, body and soul. Beyond this, any other benefits gained were considered a bonus-due to my exceeded expectations from the onset.
After settling in, before fatigue could take over, we headed out as daylight transitioned into a mysterious dusk. We were on a mission to find a market and dinner. Both goals fell short of success. We descended down the slope of cobblestone walkways, precarious at best, uneven, imperfect, and dangerously unpredictable. Numerous close calls were sustained and rectified by lunging, tripping and catapulting through the wobbly compact alleyways of Porto.
We had availed ourselves ample time to find a grocery store. But, 2 hours into our expedition in futility we twisted and turned the elusive map, managing to spin ourselves into a loop of frustration. We finally found a store, just as the door signed flipped to closed, redirected with this same scenario playing out 2 additional times.
We eventually gave up and focused on dinner. The first restaurant we attempted-a lone empty table taunted us from the window as we studied the outside menu. Upon entry once again we were turned away. With one final push of hope we entered Uata a burger joint full of crushed dreams and disappointment.
If you follow A Girl and Her Hubs you know I am a vegetarian and a real nuisance with my food. I own it proudly and after years of fighting it-I will not deny it. But, what this establishment created in lieu of a veggie burger should be illegal. Hubs ordered a regular burger. The veggie burger ordered from the menu I requested one modification, no bun, lettuce wrap instead. Through Google translation the manager began a tedious bargaining discussion, a back and forth of his improvised bootleg veggie burger proposal.
Unfortunately, much was lost in the intense digital negotiation. What I received instead was a peculiar one-of-a-kind onion ring salad. There was no veggie burger, and he felt too bad to tell me. He did not charge us for this at least. Back at the apartment sitting at the table with the glow of the city’s intense light, we chomped on our less than appealing fare ready for some much-needed rest.
Day 2
We awoke fresh and ready to seize the day. The plan for today was a “free” walking tour through Take Free Tours. Technically-not free-but you pay what you want. We always try to fit these in when we arrive in a new city. It generally covers a lot of information and gives a good lay of the land. We met Jaime (pronounced “Jimey”) our tour guide along with a small group in Praca da Liberdade (Liberty Square).
Our first stop-of major relevance believe it or not was McDonald’s just a brief pop in-as it is the most stunning Mickey D’s and of great historic importance. It was previously occupied by the famous Portuguese Imperial coffeeshop-an icon in the 1930’s. The building is adorned with the original Art Deco ornate ceilings, chandeliers, and stained glass.
Jaime described the complex history of Portugal, the Liberal Revolution of 1820, he led us through the Sao Bento Train Station one of the most beautiful in the world with over 20,000 stunning blue and white tiles that depict Portugal’s past.
We snaked our way through the streets, staying close behind as he maneuvered his way with ease through the maze of traffic and people. We hovered close by the Lello Bookstore, a spectacular example of Neo-Gothic architecture-with very, very extremely loose (as in zero) ties to Harry Potter. The real story is the building’s beauty. This would be the only appearance of the bookstore for us. It required a reservation, is pricey and involved several hours wait time-none of which we were willing or wanting to do.
Lello Bookstore
The Train Station
We sat outside the University of Porto while Jaime earnestly chronicled the nearly 40-year dictatorship of Antonio de Oliveira Salazar. We were mesmerized by his detailed depictions that had personally affected him when his own Father was unfairly imprisoned.
University of Porto
He pointed out the Carmo and Carmelitas Churches built in the 17th century two baroque and rococo style churches separated by one of the world’s narrowest houses. The house was built to make all contact between nuns and monks impossible. We made our way to Clerigos Church and Tower. The recognized landmark and most emblematic monument in the city dates back to 1763.
He herded us through, a quick look left, look right steering us hastily to the exit. The tower is the tallest campanile in Portugal. It stands 249 feet high and is 200 steps to the top. It offers breathtaking views of the Douro River and is the only spot in Porto which the Atlantic Ocean can be seen. 49 bells form a large carillon at the top and 2 times a day the bells do their thing, a nice little pick me up we caught several times.
Clerigos Tower
The tour ended conveniently on our street at Miradouro da Vitoria which was quite the sunset hotspot gathering point. At the corner of the street, an open concrete patch with full free access of the dramatic vistas of the river, the bridge, Nova Gaia and beyond. A street musician crooning out one hit wonder cover songs was a permanent fixture providing a daily complimentary serenade.
Scenic views from Vitória Lookout
Jaime the tour guide had imparted some meal recommendations and with hunger kicking in we went with one of his selections Solar Moinho de Vento. Our kind and patient waitress told us the history of the restaurant which dates back to 1905. The stone walls, wood beamed ceiling and cozy corner table delivered the quintessential Portuguese dining milieu.
There was only 1 other couple dining and the open kitchen produced smells, sights and sounds that enhanced the pleasure meter even more. Hubs tried the white wine referred to as “Vinho Verde” (green wine or young wine) due to the lush green fertile soil for the grapevines of Portugal.
Hubs and I dined on a pleasing cheese plate consisting of several varieties of nutty, pungent, sharp and tangy selections. Fragrant grapes, exotic figs and a never had before pumpkin jam accented this plate of yumminess. Hubs had traditional fried cod with beans and rice. The price was reasonable, the service was excellent, and we both had leftovers. It was an exquisite end to the most perfect day.
Dinner at Solar Moinho de Vento
Day 3
Today we had a planned excursion scheduled prior to coming. We were picked up by tour guide (and driver) Jose Serrano for our all day trip to Braga and Guimaraes through Booking.com operated by Cooltouroporto.com.
We made our way to the first stop Bom Jesus do Monte (Good Jesus of the Mount). Located on the arboreous slopes of Mount Espinho-this cultural landscape evokes Christian Jerusalem, recreating a sacred climb crowned with a church. A sanctuary that has served as an important pilgrimage, place of worship known for its spiritual devotion and architectural splendor includes a series of chapels, sculptures, fountains, and formal gardens as well as a must-see UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Dating back to the 14th century, the Baroque dark granite and white stairway zigzags dizzily to the top, leading to the church referred to as the Sacred Way. The fountains in the center symbolize the 5 senses of touch, smell, taste, sight and sound.
I took the steps slowly and methodically, savoring each level with mindfulness focusing on all the sensations around me. Each deliberate upward movement fortified my being with a tranquil and infinite resolve creating a transcending memory. The church at the apex of the hill stands proudly 381 ft high (573 steps).
Bom Jesus do Monte
As we approached the 18th century church, bells rang in an angelic serenade. At the main altar of the church a carving embedded deep in the sandstone depicted the somber crucifixion scene. It was compelling, poignant and flawless. Jose pulled us close, whispering in the echoey chamber of the church. He pointed out significant symbolism as we stood fully absorbed in the divine dialogue.
Back in the van Jose took us to the historic city center of Braga. Our first stop was Braga Cathedral-the oldest cathedral in Portugal that is comprised of Gothic and Baroque styles. Jose granted us 30 minutes of free time. We popped in some shops that specialized in Portuguese goods for speedy retail therapy purchasing colorful ceramic objects.
Braga Cathedral
We met back up at Restaurante Diana. We feasted on hearty traditional cabbage bean soup piping hot and aromatic, ladled out in a ceruminous way by the incredible and polite staff. Two tantalizing lunch options were presented Lasagna with French Fries or Salmon with Potatoes. Sadly, neither of which I could eat due to my diet restrictions-instead the chef prepared me a plate of grilled vegetables with mouthwatering mushrooms. Hubs had the salmon followed by creamy Panna Cotta with a sweet berry sauce, succulent melon for me. Traditional Portuguese Green wine was given with lunch-all of this was included in the cost. The service was incredible, the wait staff friendly and extremely accommodating.
From there we got back in the van and headed to Guimaraes considered the cradle of the Portuguese Nation-it is one of the finest historical cities in Portugal and also a World Heritage UNESCO site. The first Portuguese King was born there and is regarded by many as the birthplace of the country. It also contains the 2 most frequented tourist sites Castelo de Guimaraes and Paco dos Duques de Braganca (Castle and Palace).
The castle dates back to the 10th century. The carcass of the structure is still present, but the innards are long gone. Tour buses dumped out masses of people, as we all walked up metal steps and pathways clunking our way across the perimeter of the surviving walls. We plodded over rocks, pebbles and large stones in a single file highly civilized line.
Guimaraes Castle
We made our way next to the Palace that dates back to the 15th century. Jose explained the first 2 floors are dedicated to the palace the rest of the building are government offices.
Before we split up for more free time he pointed out on the sidewalk the emblem Scallop shell -“Vieira” the symbol for the pilgrimage route for the Camino de Santiago trail. It represents the story of St James and the discovery of his body in Galicia-many start their journey in Portugal. Hub’s Nephew and Wife (shout out Timmy & Jodi) have done this several years, so we have a personal connection, fascination and appreciation for the dedication and faith that is required for this religious journey.
We walked through the historic medieval city center streets, narrow and twisty, curving and winding. The sun warmed us as we went through darkened alleyways and mysterious passages. We were escorted to a tiny establishment that the main specialties are made only with the same 3 ingredients Flour, Sugar, Eggs Pastelaria Clarinha specializing in Pastel de Nata-an eggy sweet custard tart.
The origin was illustrated to us as we nibbled on the complimentary sweet delicacy. I chose a gluten free almond paste bar. It was not sweet at all and quite delicious. It was a nice surprise and a generous way to end the tour. Jose dropped us off concluding our time together.
Yummy Pastel de Nata
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I want to very briefly mention we were joined with one other couple on this tour. They were a quite despicable “gen Z” pair from California. They were hateful to us-for absolutely no reason and had the potential to really destroy our amazing day. I despise even bringing them up as everything else about the day was so special. I share this only to illustrate the fact that even in the presence of vile human beings exists the most gracious of humanity. Good will always shine. In spite of the nastiness we encountered and the 2 individuals who clearly hated us for no identifiable reason, what I will choose to recall on this day will be the benevolence, brilliance and beauty of Braga, Guimaraes and Jose.
Day 4
Today was a free day full of exploring. Waking up to the clear sky, powerful sun and sights and sounds of Porto-below us, in front of us, across from us- was more effective (and enjoyable) than any alarm clock. We set out on foot with no objectives in mind. We followed a steady stream of enthusiastic pedestrians and ended up at the If the Douro River and labyrinth of streets are the circulatory system of Porto, then the Mercado Bolhao is indeed the beating heart. ❤️
The Mercado do Bolhão dates back to 1914. An endless flow of people, locals, tourists nosey like us meandering about touching, smelling, poking, and prodding-riveted by the abundant stimuli. The aisles span the entire length of the building, organized by groupings of items, meticulously spotless and oddly not intimidating at all. The prices were some of the cheapest I had seen. Vibrant fresh fruit in every form, each item allows portable small versions to enjoy while shopping as well. Pungent, briny olives in every shape, color and variety. Vegetables, breads, sweets, candy. Entire stalls devoted to fish of every species. Baked goods, sweet sugar spectacles so tempting in the glass cases.
Bolhao Market
They had many vendors for cheese. Every shape, size, color-foreign, fancy and the well knowns. I got some fresh dried parmesan crisps. It was like nothing I have ever tasted, super cheap and fully satisfying. We roamed each aisle taking in the full scope of this cultural nirvana. If in Porto, this is a must-do.
Cheese, Cheese & More Cheese!
We walked to Restaurante Na Muche another recommendation from our Tour Guide Jaime. It specializes in traditional Portuguese dishes. I had a peculiar sweet potato burger and Hubs got garlic shrimp. It was a little bit heavy and early with our hunger not in full gear. It was very cheap though and the service was excellent.
Lunch at Restaurante Na Muche
We made our way to the most famous bridge in Porto the Dom Luis Bridge. Built in 1877 by Teófilo Seyrig, who was a partner of Eiffel (yes, that Eiffel) but the former Partner (lots of drama of ownership regarding that component).
The bridge has an upper and lower level. Both levels can be crossed on foot, but the lower is shared with cars and the upper is used for the Porto Metro. The bridge connects Porto with Vila Nova De Gaia. We cautiously strolled along with thousands of others on the top tier hugging the skinny sidewalk.
The metro trains chugged on by every few minutes, the hard steel vibrating beneath us. Many picture opportunities, each twist or turn a new photo prospect. The river below glistened under the golden sun, boats and activity in the water below. Music, rock bands, voices and laughter bounced off the 4 corners.
Vitória Neighborhood
We crisscrossed from edge to edge dodging the trams, leapfrogging crowds, getting different angles and perspectives. A perpetual feeling of FOMO stayed with us, wondering if the outlook below or across would be better.
Like an everchanging kaleidoscope, the viewing changed with any variable affecting it. Light, sound, weather, time of day, pivot a little one way, shuffle slightly another each time-an optical utopia of delights.
Dom Luis Bridge
We made our way closer to the apartment as hunger and rain kicked in. We ducked into Garcia Marquez Specialty Coffee and Restaurant. Hubs had Sea Bass that he swooned over. My meal… well let’s just say-my vegan pancake-landed on someone else’s table. Since the restaurant was nearly empty I blamed this on a small child catty corner from us. The owner tried to rectify but in true martyr fashion, I brooded instead giving dirty looks to the culprit thief of my pancake. Hubs did benefit from a crème Brule consolation.
Days later, we would return for breakfast where I would ultimately achieve vegan pancake victory.
Day 5
Bookending our days by gazing mindlessly surveying our awe-inspiring surroundings became a necessary source of amusement. It was an arresting opener in the dawn and a sublime closer at dusk. The seagulls would glide by flapping their wings effortlessly, a rhythmic cacophony of repetitive bird calls erupted signifying the day’s launch.
The ambient twinkle and flickering lights at evening’s end served as a calming nightlight, a soothing optical lullaby. The riverscape became our entertainment giving us hours of unrelented pleasure.
On this crisp clear day, we made our way to Porto Cathedral a Roman Catholic church and one of the city’s oldest monuments dating back to the 16th century. To get there we had to go steeply downhill to then go sharply uphill. We followed a walking caravan of inquisitive tourists down the pebbled pitched walkways. The early morning fog burned off as we approached the energized Church square.
Adjacent to the church is the Museu do Tesouro da se which houses sacred ceramics, furniture, jewelry, textiles. We winded around and made our way into the church. Sunday service was in progress- a full house of worshippers had just vacated their priceless seats to receive communion. In an act of complete unintentional blasphemy, we innocently hijacked the coveted now accessible spots capturing the last few words from the Priest’s sermon followed by a heavenly grand finale performance from the pipe organ. The confused parishioners made their way back to the now confiscated space and by their scowling faces we realized our heinous offense. We hightailed it out of there before we could cause any more trouble.
Museu do Tesouro da se
Our next stop was Casa do Infante. Built in 1325 it one of the city’s oldest buildings and has served different purposes over the centuries, a residence for the royal family, a Customs house as well as a Mint. The exhibit pays homage to their revered Prince and Father/Founder of Portugal Henry the Navigator. We spent an enjoyable few hours there. Admission was free as it was Sunday; it was well worth the time spent.
From there we made our way to the Ribeira historic riverfront. The elements could not have been more ideal. The sun was potent, and a welcome chill hung in the air. In front of us, boats bobbed gently in the gleaming placid Douro River. In complete contrast to the waterfront serenity, high-spirited rock bands every few feet bellowed out charged lyrics, impromptu revelers danced on the sidewalk- an energetic cohort of all worlds converging to partake in this day of leisure. We passed by non-tempting goods of all kinds, rip off overpriced restaurants-the expensive trade off to dine at the cherished water’s edge.
Ribeira
We ascended upwards, snaking our way through hidden alleyways and side streets moving away from the crowd. Around a corner, on a 90-degree tilted gradient uphill camouflaged into the stone wall was Restaurante o Terreirinho. This quiet culinary oasis offered everything you hope for when you reflect back on a trip. It had amazing service, great prices, flavorful food, romantic, quiet- it was complete perfection.
Hubs had a traditional Pork stew and rice that complimented the green wine he had grown to love. I had a creamy pumpkin soup and an indulgent cheese plate. Full, content and wholly satiated in every way, we slowly hobbled our way back to the apartment.
Dinner Restaurante o Terreirinho
Day 6
St. Patrick’s Day & Hubs Birthday
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Dressed up in our tackiest of green St. Patty’s Day regalia we set out for the day. Hub’s birthday which coincides with the most celebrated Irish holiday in my opinion is the best day of the year. On this very special day, I get to honor my most beloved human in this world. And for that reason, especially, makes this day more extraordinary than any other.
However, after extensive research, exploration and inquiry it was affirmed to us more than once-this is not really a recognized holiday in Portugal.
We started off with breakfast back at Garcia Marquez Specialty Coffee and Restaurant. If you recall, this was where my vegan pancake was unfairly provided to another patron-a child sitting close by to me-is the suspect I believe. When it comes to food deprivation, I do hold a grudge.
Unsure if they recognized us from 2 days ago, but nonetheless, I did secure my vegan pancake. It was quite yummy, but a little too fancy for my simple self.
Birthday Breakfast at Garcia Marquez
We took an uber to Jardim Botanico do Porto (Botanical Gardens). On the campus is also the Natural History and Science Museum of the University of Porto MHNC-UP which was closed on this day. The gardens serve as a welcome escape from the fast-paced hustle from the city. There were only a handful of other people there in this peaceful landscape. We traversed through the different levels of flora and plant life.
Botanical Gardens
The first signs of Spring were making its glorious debut. We looped through the multilevel fertile grounds on the mossy slick earth passing robust azalea, budding crimson roses, branching stalks of invasive bamboo and prickly cactus. Floating delicate emerald lily pads buoyed in the murky pond as frisky fish played hide and seek beneath it.
A pair of ultra friendly roosters cock-a-doodle-doo’d in a repetitive rain man style sequence surveilling us suspiciously throughout our visit.
We sat down to rest our feet when Hub’s sister texted him (Shout Out Carol) to wish him a happy birthday and inquire if he would be hitting any pubs. That’s all it took for yours truly to reignite the madness of locating a proper Irish Pub.
Within a 100-mile radius there were 3 pubs-two of which were currently closed. There was one that was open about 30 minutes away. The one good/bad thing between Hubs and I-that is a result of most of our travels and other crazy decisions-is sometimes we lack rational thinking and are impulsive. There should be one of us who speaks the voice of reason.
But there are those instances where neither one of us thinks it through. This could have been one of those occasions where we could have been deeply regretting our hasty choices. This turned out be a splendid impromptu expedition.
The uber dropped us off at Sideways Irish Pub in Santa Maria da Feira. Initially deep disappointment was the first reaction, followed by a serious reluctance to exit the vehicle. But we viewed this as a mutual caper that required equal investment. We wandered working our way down the medieval street completely bypassing the silly sad pub we initially came for. There was clearly no Irish festivities taking place.
Santa Maria de Feira 🏰
Off in the distance, up a pitched forested escarpment a castle dating back from 1117 peeked out from the hillside Castelo de Santa Maria da Feira. This was complete unplanned happenstance resulting in an unintentional brilliant bonus. Although it was closed, it did not impede our appreciation of this unexpected discovery.
Castelo de Santa Maria da Feira
We followed an enchanting path that led us to a mystical grotto Grutas das Guimbras Grotto Cuevas straight out of a whimsical fairy tale. The rock formation Dr. Seuss-esque cave shelter had bizarre pendulous dangling stalagmite-chalk colored rock icicles hanging in a Gaudi type stone architecture. An ornate bridge with a quaint shallow pond and a rooftop lookout rounded out this fortuitous plot twist of an escapade.
Grotto
This risky act of reckless spontaneity could have gone terribly awry for us at the bare minimum potentially losing a precious vacation day just for the foolish flight of fantasy. I ask you, earnestly how does one top this thrilling day? Dining at the Froiz Supermarket is how A Girl and Her Hubs kick it-St. Patty’s birthday edition.
When traveling abroad-I am rather fascinated by local grocery stores. I find the mystery of them oddly enticing-the novelty of unearthing undiscovered gems, procuring foreign bargains and seeking out unfamiliar economical treats.
We rummaged through the aisles, an adult version of show and tell, yelling out our frenzied finds. We sat at a crumb laden table, the retail ambiance and mundane store surroundings created the most authentic vibe for our improvised makeshift picnic comprised of cheese, crackers, and various local goodies. We laughed, celebrated and rejoiced Hub’s day of birth and the many years on this planet as we munched heartily on our oddity of provisions.
After our grocery store dining, the weather began to rapidly deteriorate. The sky grew ominously dark, rain pelted sideways-the accelerated onset shutting down our historic day at Santa Maria da Feira for us. We summoned an uber back to the comfort of the apartment.
A surprise awaited Hubs provided by our gracious hosts. On the table in a most pleasing display was a dainty and exquisite chocolate birthday cake and bottle of Portuguese Champagne to finish out this most supreme day and one more reason why Vitoria’s was so special.
Day 7
We had a planned excursion today through the reliable booking.com for a guided tour and 3 Port Wine tasting. We took a short uber ride to Vila Nova de Gaia to Pocas Winery. Gaia is home to over 25 Port wine cellars all located in this one condensed district. The fortified wine that is produced solely in Portugal comes from grapes in the Northern Portugal region-the Douro Valley.
Because it is so concentrated it has 16-20% alcohol in it. With so many wineries to choose from, we selected this one based on the suggestion of tour guide Jaime from the free walking tour (day 2). Pocas spans 4 generations over 100 years old and still owned by the same Portuguese family.
We followed Luis and the small group for this tour; he explained the complicated fermentation process as we stood in front of the sturdy oak barrels. The dim lighting, chilled temperature and orderly aisles of wooden casks created an accommodating backdrop to Luis’s Port Masterclass.
Luis 🍷
We circled our way to the tasting portion spilling out into a restaurant type set up, long tables, bar stools with Port merch showcased throughout. Here is the part I must disclose, I do not drink alcohol. A former lampshade wearing gal and always the life of the party, I badly abused my privileges, and they have since been revoked for 8 years. But that did not spoil or interfere with the whole Port experience. I was provided a “Vintage” grape juice. The sugar content through my calorie carb counter went into overdrive and induced a simulated version of a buzz induced by sweetness alone. Hubs was offered a White, Tawny and Vintage Port. He swirled his glass around in a convincing way as Luis explained the nuances of each.
We struck up a lovely conversation with a pair of guys from South America-Mateo and Santiago. Mateo had an interesting story-a student who worked for Delta airlines, his homebase in Atlanta-traveling the world and living his best life. His buddy Santiago was his travel partner and lifelong friend. For 7 days, all my communication had been isolated to the Hubs. The lively discussion and interesting tales they shared were a good accompaniment to the libations. More so, I was impressed with their exuberance in learning, their enthusiastic participation and their easy-going all-in YOLO attitude. They introduced Hubs to the exclusive Pocas Soberbo Vermouth served chilled on ice-an insider tip only the savviest of connoisseurs would have knowledge of. As we departed, we saw them negotiating with Luis, deliberating over the purchase of a pricey Port.
Mateo & Santiago
All that aged grape juice really stirred up my hunger. We made our way down hill, mainly an industrial zone designated to Port Wineries. For a week our apartment view had been comprised of all these distant names Taylor’s, Cockburn’s, Churchill’s. Now we began passing each one, an indistinct familiarity resonated just from watchful recognition. Mega tour busses crammed full of eager travelers occupied the slender slanted streets-depositing their visibly weary bodies VIP style door to door service. Juxtaposed to us-hugging the buildings for stability as we sidestepped our way down the perilous cobbled nosedive descent.
Obscurely tucked away in the Marriot Hotel we dined at the Restaurante Dona Maria. We were immediately escorted to a window side table facing the colorful Ribeira. The vast River in front of us, with a fully unobstructed eyeshot made it possible to pin down our apartment-down to the distinguishable blue tile. We were perched amongst the rooftops and from this vantage point it was a completely reverted image. Porto is somewhat surreal in that way. Many different vignettes of the city can be seen, like a prism you shine to the light, just a deviation in movement can recast an altered composition. Similar to moving the focal centerpiece in a still life painting, the mirrored back imagery is in a constant state of visual transformation.
The restaurant was large and spacious, almost entirely empty at this time. It is known for traditional Portuguese cuisine. The waitress and staff were profoundly polite. Hubs ordered the 3-course meal special starting with Cream of Asparagus soup, followed by Mushroom Tagliatelle and ending with an Apple Tart with homemade ice cream. My menu had some minor modifications, no pasta for me-just grilled vegetables and fresh fruit to end with.
The crew there were extremely obliging to my never ending, annoying ambush of revisions and displayed genuine concern for our overall satisfaction. The service was one of the finest I have ever had; the prices were remarkable, and our meal was exceptional. The view was the added benefit that truly made it so memorable.
Restaurante
Dona Maria ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️
We made our way to the Vila Nova de Gaia Waterfront. We walked along the promenade. This section was more touristy than Ribeira across the river. It was full of hokey come-ons, plentiful shopping opportunities and a circus like “step right up, folks” kind of feel to it. We weaved our way out of the riffraff exploring the nooks and crannies off the beaten path. I had been hounding Hubs all week to go on this corny Gaia Cable Car.
Cable Car Fun
There is a good reason that Hubs sometimes will hold off on my ridiculous whims. This really should have been one of them. Less than 5 minutes, it takes you up 200 feet and drops you off on the upper deck of the Luís I bridge. For 7 Euros it does preserve some shoe leather-that’s really about it.
It was pretty anticlimactic-the bridge is actually more enjoyable than the sky ride. We walked along the crowded bridge. Flocks of people, squeezed past, leaping in front of us, skipping, hopping and sprinting between people and trains. This was to be our last bridge prospect, so we tried our best to savor the views and the splendor from this architectural wonder.
Last looks on the Bridge
By this point, it had been a long day for Hubs crisscrossing Porto with several glasses of green wine marinating in him. We began our up and down pedestrian dosido back to the apartment. But one last pitstop was to be made which would certainly energize the Hubs.
If you know anything about Hubs from previous blogs, he is a guitar lover. He does not discriminate country or culture. Portugal is the land of guitar playing. Portugal is deeply embedded in the art of Fado. It is an evocative music that dates back to the 19Th century. It is seductive, emotional and melancholic. It has strong roots to the students in Coimbra. We did not go to a Fado concert this time around but our previous trip we did, and it was one of the major highlights. I share this because guitars have a significant prominence because of this.
We stopped in Porto Guitarra. Hubs strummed the instruments now fully awake-the strings served as epinephrine to his depleted system. Instant muscle memory kicked in as he got comfortable knowing likely one of these babies would coming home with us. He was especially interested in the Cavaquinho Cabo Verde. The craftmanship is exquisite in this 4 string Ukulele sized instrument. Hubs plucked away in ecstasy immediate and instant love. And yes he did indeed stuff that sucker in his luggage, buffered and protected between ripe underwear and stinky socks.
We eventually made our way back to the apartment, a simple evening of leftovers and Netflix to ease our way back to reality as tomorrow would be our final day in Porto.
Day 8 Our Last Day 😭😭😭😭
Our time in Porto was coming to an end. We have been traveling semiannually for over 30 years now and each destination occupies a precious place in my heart-but Portugal hits different. Historically, as we approach the end point, I am eager to get home, reacclimate to life, reality and recover from shameful overindulgence. But with less than 24 hours left, I was unburdened from any homesick proclivities. Today we took an Uber a short distance to the Soares dos Reis National Museum. Believed to be the first public art museum in the country-it is named after Porto native sculptor António Manuel Soares dos Reis.
The museum was the former King of Portugal’s Carrancas Palace. The 18th century salmon colored neoclassical architecture dates back to 1932 when it was donated to the city at the time of his death and made into the national museum. The vast collection has over 8,000 pieces that include paintings, sculptures, engravings, ceramics and textiles. We went room to room immersing ourselves fully into the relics-gripping time capsules of Portuguese culture–a snapshot in time captured for eternity.
Close by we walked to the Crystal Palace Gardens. The pristine manicured grounds amidst bubbling fountains and civilized roosters were a welcoming break from the heaviness of the art we had just left. Flamboyant domesticated peacocks inexplicably present and oddly engaged, fraternized affectionately with the locals.
This bucolic scene would be short lived as the weather suddenly shifted, the sky darkened, and rain trickled down. Seeking a dry spot, we found shelter amongst a perky assembly of rambunctious teenagers at the Super Bock Arena in the Rosa Mota Pavilion-a prominent space for various popular sporting events. We snagged the last available table to accommodate our packed picnic spread. Adjacent to us an adorable cherub essence foursome of teenage boys laid out an ambitious feast complete with a lace embroidered tablecloth way more sophisticated than our USA adolescent counterparts. But quickly we found ourselves imprisoned on all sides from the youthful flock now growing rowdier. The convergence of pubescent bedlam and teeming hormones infiltrated our space and peace causing us to wisely uproot swiftly.
Crystal Palace Gardens
We quietly escaped back outside, the rain had stopped, and the sun creeped out. Chatty college kids spilled out onto the crowded sidewalks of the nearby University of Porto ensconced in their ubiquitous Black Evora Capes (Cloak of Invisibility).
We continued on, ushering through our check list for any lingering desires we had missed. Our energy reserves and daylight were both diminishing. Getting closer to our neighborhood we found ourselves at Cordoaria Garden. The history of this space is vast with a common theme of resurrection. In the Middle Ages it served as a prosperous olive grove. Later on, its namesake which translates to Garden of the Ropemakers served as a tribute to their economic source and craft-Rope. In the 19th century it was designated as a cemetery for cholera victims. In present day, it serves as a peaceful timeout from the frenetic city. In 1941 a cyclone completely destroyed the gardens, and it was not until 2001 when it was all fully restored to its former brilliance. Its geographical positioning, places it in the humble shadows of the Clerigos Tower and the grand Palacio da Justica (The Palace of Justice- The House of Appeals). Neatly trimmed hedges frame and fortify the park.
One of the most interesting and uniquely Portuguese elements encountered were the assortment and variety of trees. The most prominent-the London Plane, the locals refer to as “Big Butt” trees. They embody a feminine like posture with a sturdy wide base resembling a Victorian hoop skirt. The trunk expands up into a tousled network of chaotic branches. Expressive sculptures are stationed throughout the softly pebbled path that wraps around a tranquil lake.
Our last stop for the day was the Portuguese Center of Photography. A former prison from the 18th century active until the 1970’s. The museum is fully dedicated to the art of photography. Entry is free and we entered the same time as a swarm of rowdy teenagers. Cat calls, hooting and howling reverberated through the echoey eerie chambers. We were growing tired and with a ridiculously early morning flight we ended our time.
Later that evening we had our final meal at Porta 4 Restaurant. This postage stamp restaurant was just a stone’s throw from the apartment. It was a tiny claustrophobic shoe box that held 6 small tables with 2 separate seatings. In extremely close quarters, we sat shoulder to shoulder with the other strangers. We were tired, only mildly hungry and just really not feeling it. I had studied the very limited menu and chose this place embarrassingly over a plate referred to as “veggie balls.” I was informed almost immediately that this was no longer available.
Honestly we should have just gone back to Vitoria’s dined on our stash of peanut butter and crackers and called it a night. But, before I could protest the chef informed me that he could provide me a plate of onion hummus (huh?) and had the prized veggie ball concoction available. He stomped up a narrow row of steps where each clomp vibrated the petite table. Down he came with a frozen Ziplock of what I could only deduct was my veggie ball creation. The miniature kitchen was inches from my seat. Watching the kitchen team in this cramped space whip out final touches with a blow torch was mesmerizing. The other guests were equally as enthralled by the showmanship of it all, something indicated to me this audience were pretentious foodies treating this like theater instead of overrated food in a confined space.
Hubs consumed an underwhelming duck breast meanwhile my freezer burnt slop arrived, undercooked (unsure how you determine when veggie balls reach peak poaching, but this was not it). And onion hummus-is that really a thing or was this just made up on the fly as the thawing bag of gruel was unearthed? Either way the other customers ooh’d and ahh’d in histrionic delirium as their plates came, while mine was clearly inedible. This was to be our most expensive meal and undeniably the least enjoyable.
As we made our way back to the apartment, we stopped one last time at the Vitoria scenic spot overlooking the city. This is where it all began. That first look was true love. Porto is a real treasure in the world of travel. It checked every box for me.
Although every day 90% chance of rain was predicted-we only experienced a few rainy episodes. The weather was everything we hoped for, the city -the layout, the aesthetics, the ancient vs modern offer it all. The physicality and reward of each cobblestone trek, the monetary conquest of the bargain (so much bang for your buck-unheard of in Europe), the fun retail therapy, the glorious vibrant ceramics. The surprising and enjoyable art-we had dismissed that we would be impressed by. The food, the scrumptious fresh, wholesome and clean glorious nourishment gobbled up. The wine-cannot forget that green wine that Hubs sucked down many a meal. The views, from every corner of Porto. Everywhere you look there was sight to be seen, a gasp to be had. Vitoria’s…where to begin and how to end? Hands down one of our nicest dwellings we have stayed in, top tier location. And. That. View–sigh. Sitting by the French doors, gazing out beyond the Douro River never got old. Seeing it in the fog, the sun, during sunset, at night with the lights off-each variant producing different endorphins and pleasure points.
Lastly, and most importantly the people of Porto. From Rita and Rui and their beautiful home to Jaime and Jose-each shop owner and waitress, all independently but universally treated us with kindness, respect and acceptance. My requests were not easy and many times unreasonable but never declined nor dismissed. The industriousness of the people, hardworking, people pleasing, willing to do whatever is needed or asked purely for the purpose of hospitality. We witnessed cranes loading heavy equipment all hours of the night, in the dark operating well into the long hours of the evening. There was an overall unshakable willingness of duty and purpose that was exhibited through earnest productivity and engagement. Porto is a slow burn in every positive way. Vivid reminders of the infinite ways Porto has enriched me flooded back to me as I created this trip journal. A divine complimentary bonus allowing me to relive it all over again. I am a changed for the better person from the 8 incredible days I embraced Porto life. I had naively thought I had seen everything I needed to in my lifetime-but Porto has reminded me that there is much more yet to still experience.
See you in September when A Girl, Her Hubs and a Suitcase hit the road for 2 weeks in Nova Scotia, Canada.
Until Then….
Love ~B&F~💕
A Girl Her Hubs and a Suitcase 
I so enjoy your trips, since I am unable to travel. You make us feel like we are on the trips with you. With all the restrictions out there. Stay safe you two. Hope to see more of your smiling faces.
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